Elements of Care

“How difficult to imagine this place without a human presence; how necessary. I am almost prepared to believe that this sweet virginal primitive land will be grateful for my departure and the absence of the tourists, will breathe metaphorically a collective sigh of relief—like a whisper of wind—when we are all and finally gone and the place and its creations can return to their ancient procedures unobserved and undisturbed by the busy, anxious, brooding consciousness of man."
(Naturalist and Author Edward Abbey in Desert Solitaire)

In so many cases of natural resource management – human traffic and nature are similar to oil and water. They don’t mix. Nature invariably seems to lose out – through human ignorance, carelessness or plain lack of respect. The aftermath of human presence is generally ugly; with tossed beer bottles and illegal campfire rings, trails of toilet paper littering the landscape, roadless areas torn up and wildlife terrorized by illegal OHV use. This is why education and dedication are paramount in maintaining and preserving natural treasures.

To many travelers worldwide, the Grand Canyon is a sacred site – one of immense geographical grandeur and beauty, with sweeping vistas of varied hues. Pink, brown, red, magenta, purple and green bands of color dominate the landscape in the canyon; with canyon walls a study in perspective and acoustics. The emerald green waters of the Colorado, (which run a muddy chocolate milk color after flash floods,) wind their way through 280 miles of canyon before broadening into Lake Mead. People truly care about the Grand Canyon - and the river that runs through it – and consciously commit to protecting and preserving the true nature of a canyon adventure.

Rafting white water through the Grand Canyon – one of the most sought-after river trips in the world – is an honor and a privilege. It’s been known to take years of prolonged anticipation for the prized permit to materialize. To retain this privilege, trip takers are expected (read: required) to follow some of the most stringent environmental regulations that the National Park Service (NPS) mandates in managing their land. DVDs on Canyon rules are sent to the permit holders, prior to the trip, with explicit instructions to make sure that all trip participants view it and become familiar with behaviors and norms expected on the trip. In 2008, nearly 4.5 million individuals visited the Grand Canyon. Non-Commercial river day users numbered105, 492, with Commercial day users numbering 114,010; a total of 229, 502 day users on the river.

The trip ideal is a pristine experience for all travelers below the rim. In the Belknap’s Waterproof Grand Canyon River Guide (which many river runners refer to during their trips), details on the geology, natural history and mile maps of the river serve as a reference for the Canyon curious. “A river trip provides a rare opportunity to be a guest in a living plant and wildlife community. Observant river travelers will leave the Canyon with a deepened awareness and respect for nature’s incredible ways.”

The regulations are actually honored – and adhered to. Catering to hikers, river runners, and tourists up on the North or South rim results in an ecological balance act that challenges all concerned. The Park Service has prioritized resource protection and implemented its key programs to maintain the canyon’s natural wonders. The Glen Canyon Dam peak hourly release averages 14,000 cfs (cubic feet per second), with a daily low hourly average release of approximately 6,000 cfs after Spring run-off. The NPS has negotiated high release flows (up to 45,000 cfs) in order to re-establish habitat and restore the original soft sandy beaches created as the sediment is washed downstream. Tamarisk (also known as saltcedar) eradication is ongoing as this invasive species of tree has been dominating the landscape and impeding the growth of native foliage in the Canyon. Flight-free air zones had been legislated by Congress in 1988, preserving the natural soundscape of canyon life.

The reintroduction of the California Condors take precedence over river trips; if the condors are at a selected camp site, boaters are to choose an alternate site so as not to disturb the endangered birds. If the condors arrive in camp, people are required to shoo them away and discourage their habituation to humans. Individuals are expected to be onboard with whatever it takes to bring back these majestic raptors.

Each river trip is accompanied by at least two ravens (seemingly “assigned” by the Park Ranger to groups at the put in at Lee’s Ferry), which are a constant reminder not to leave food out in camps or give the birds easy access to snacks. Boats can be littered with remnants of trail mix scattered while groups hike up to Havasu Falls, blissfully unaware of what mischief “their” ravens are up to. Food and snacks are kept in sealed waterproof ammo (ammunition) cans – that keep the ring-tailed cats at bay as well. These cute relatives to the raccoon (“miner’s cats” – brought in by the old-time miners as pets) are known for their nocturnal camp scavenging.

The goal is to leave a camp site or side hike cleaner than before. River runners work hard to ensure the cleanliness of camp and lunch sites. Heavy duty tarps are set down on the sand or rock ledges before the kitchen tables go in place. All food during meal preparation and eating is meant to fall on the tarp, which should then be examined and disposed of before folding and storing the tarp away. After meals, sand is sifted for any stray food particles to be promptly disposed of in the trash.

As for human waste, it is kept in sealed ammo cans as well. All excrement has to be carried out of the canyon in a sanitary way. “Pack it in – Pack it out.” Enter the “groover” – so named from the early days of river running when one squatted on an ammo can that left grooves in butt cheeks. Nowadays the groover usually comes with a portable toilet seat, with toilet paper and hand soap or sanitizer nearby. Privacy is not necessarily guaranteed, although some sites are more scenic and conducive to pooping in private.

A “day groover” also exists that is rarely set up. Somehow rafters usually learn to hold it until the next camp. Otherwise, digging “cat holes” was no longer permitted, so one needs to bring waste bags to remove the solids and TP (toilet paper). Everyone urinates directly into the river – discreetly or not so discreetly. At water levels averaging 10,000 cfs, dilution really is the solution.

Keeping the kitchen sanitary is a concern to combat any lower GI (gastrointestinal) issues. So a hand washing station is set up – where a foot pump sends out a stream of river water with bleach added, in addition to the antibacterial soap available. The dish cleaning system involves four buckets; one for scraping food off with a brush or soaking, another with hot boiled river water for washing with soap, another for rinsing with hot boiled water and finally the bucket with bleach water for the final soak. Before each of the buckets is emptied back into the river, they are poured through a strainer to catch any stray food particles left floating, which are then deposited in the trash.

All empty cans of food or beer should be crushed, minimizing the space on the boat that carries recyclables. Any ashes from the fire pan are cooled and placed into burlap bags to pack out. Campfires are permitted after October 1 and the dry driftwood is usually easy to find and burns quickly. The wisdom of requiring a tarp on the sand under the fire pans is circumspect, as it quickly becomes speckled with ember holes – and sand isn’t flammable.

Campsites and beaches are scoured for “micro-trash”; bits of paper and plastic that have blown or been washed ashore. All the work and adherence to the regulations is in the best interest of the Canyon and visitors. The privilege of exploring the bottom of the Grand Canyon by boat comes with responsibilities to the desert environment. The idea of a “working vacation” aside, teamwork and camaraderie of like-minded individuals make it a viable routine to care for the land and the river. Diligence is key.

Imagine if even a tiny portion of the discipline and concern for the environment made it back to “reality.” To make a point of caring about the environment on a grander scale, realizing that every positive action - no matter how small – brings awareness and possibility of change. After three weeks, the environmentally-sensitive routine becomes a way of life. No questions. No hassle. Similar to how recycling is becoming a national ingrained habit after a prolonged educational campaign and significant period of time.

Here is the opportunity to live minimally, sleeping under the bright canopy of stars for a succession of canyon nights, hearing the river waves lap gently against the shore or with the roar of the rapids fading into “white noise”. There is a rhythm and flow of river life. It is a magical period of time in which travelers reduce consumption of resources and learn once again how to connect with others without the supposed benefit of television, radio, cell phones, emails and the Internet. Conversations and spontaneous songs (as well as musical accompaniment by harmonica) are the nightly entertainment.

Showers are few and far between in a river with an average temperature of 55 degrees. Rafters jump into the current or a side eddy with biodegradable soap, with a restriction of 100 yards from the nearest creek or stream to be considerate of the aquatic life. Solar showers – and warm water - are luxuries.

Wearing one clean outfit each week certainly cuts down on laundry. Clothes can always be rinsed or pounded by the river’s edge to maintain an acceptable level of cleanliness.

Drinking water is obtained at the put in at Lee’s Ferry, the potable water at Phantom Ranch (a developed site at Mile 88, used as a frequent departure and arrival spot for river passengers), or at certain streams along the way. The rest of the water can be filtered with a hand pump. It is a tedious process. All 5 or 7 gallon water containers are treated with a capful of bleach, just in case.

Wildlife is viewed with respect and awe. The Big Horn Sheep are marveled at from river vantages, as well as the Peregrine Falcons and Canyon Wrens. Bats are visible in the pre-dawn and early twilight hours, darting to and fro while snapping up insects for sustenance. The scorpions like to hide under wetsuits and kayak skirts, and are admired and released safely in the day time. When illuminated by a black light, the scorpions glow an eerie phosphorescent green at night. Many creatures crawl, hop, or scamper by as boaters sleep. There are six species of rattlesnake present in the Canyon, usually lethargic and hopefully docile. Individuals with camp cots may feel slightly snugger than others on the sand with inflatable Paco pads.

Medical issues could be formidable; trips are required to have a satellite phone available in case an emergency evacuation by helicopter is necessary. Being in the backcountry for such an extended period of time requires calculated risks and responsible choices. The majority of casualties in the Canyon are usually related to hiking – and dehydration.

With functional trip details handled, the majority of travelers can expect to be on “river time”, and fully experience the beauty and peace inherent within the Canyon. By being observant and respectful, one can awaken to the sense of awe and the exquisite beauty present. Nature builds cathedrals of the outdoors – vibrant colors, echoing sounds, cerulean blue skies above, and remote buttes blending with the horizon line. Every day brings new wonders of Tapeats Sandstone and Vishnu Schist, Travertine ledges and slot canyons, along with magical waterfalls and crimson monkey flowers within havens of living green in the sun-warmed Canyon. This is a magical place – known to the rafters, the hikers, the photographers, the writers and the myriad of visitors. One visit is enough to understand why the passion for the care of the Grand Canyon runs so deep.

President, conservationist and founder of national parks Theodore Roosevelt expressed an early version of preservation and the “Leave No Trace” philosophy of natural resource management:
"In the Grand Canyon, Arizona has a natural wonder which is in kind absolutely unparalleled throughout the rest of the world. I want to ask you to keep this great wonder of nature as it now is. I hope you will not have a building of any kind, not a summer cottage, a hotel or anything else, to mar the wonderful grandeur, the sublimity, the great loneliness and beauty of the canyon. Leave it as it is. You cannot improve on it. The ages have been at work on it, and man can only mar it."


Submitted for potential publication April 19, 2010